Stardust Memories: In Search of Real Italian Food
By Peter Robb
Tony Bilson has done incomparable good for eating in Sydney over a long time. The gold-coated egg yolk was a Melbourne boy’s astute pitch at Sydney’s easily bored diners – he talked of “keeping them interested”. Yet you wondered whether Bilson, who has been thrashing around a bit lately, losing hats and speaking out sharply, didn’t feel a twinge of regret. Was that all it came to, 40 y
Bread and Butter
By Gay Bilson
For dessert we ate hot puff pastry with a filling of grated apple cooked with butter, eggs and lemon. It pleased the guests, although one of them asked about the filling and seemed shocked that the ingredients were so rich, which is to say (she implied by her look), unhealthy. Another guest, a food scientist who directs the FOODplus Research Centre at the University of Adelaide, demanded to be giv